Japanese food hasn’t had this much fun since Tampopo. And if fun isn’t the word that first pops to mind when you think of a five- or 10-course chef’s choice feast—you haven’t tasted Shota Nakajima’s stunning kaiseki. The visual gasp of raw fish arrayed on magenta seaweed and a banana leaf over ice in an asymmetrical bowl. The sensory blast of chawan mushi, or egg custard, with morels and chunks of black cod arriving—when the lid is removed—in a cloud of briny steam. And for dessert: smoked cedar gelato. It’s the most informal formality in town (you can also order a la carte), enjoyed in a mod split-level Pike/Pine room with chill music and a destination bar.