I’ve been sampling lots of restaurant desserts lately, and some of these are ice creams, and some of those are most assuredly not your mama’s ice creams—crafted with the aid of technologies mama might’ve killed for. Keeping in mind that dessert menus change frequently and that these precise creations may never be seen again (call ahead!), here are three recent mind blowers:
At the casual/high-end Naka—yeah, it really is both—there is much to savor and even more to admire. Into both categories falls a finisher of smoked cedar gelato, which they achieve by making vanilla bean gelato base then hooking it up to a machine that shoots in cedar smoke. As it cools it liquefies, suffusing the ice cream with the intense essence of last summer’s camping trip. That one where you could still make a campfire. Startling, fascinating, and finally satisfying on the palate.